Isimangaliso Wetlands Park: Place of miracle and wonder.

The spectacular and diverse landscape of the Isimangaliso Wetlands park.

Often referred to as the most diverse Natural protected area in Africa, The Isimangaliso Wetlands Park stretches from Mapelane South of St Lucia to the Mozambique border. The entire length of coast (approximately 220km in length) is a marine protected area and protects stunning coral reefs (accessible to divers at Sodwana Bay) as well as many protected bays (such as Cape Vidal, Mabibi and Lala nek ) where snorkeling is possible from shore on the low tide. 

The Isimangaliso Wetlands Park protects stunning, pristine Coral reefs such as at Sodwana Bay.

Marine life is stunning and diverse with approximately 1200 species of fish recorded in the Isimangaliso Marine protected area along with Octopus, Lobsters, Nudibranches and other marine life. The healthy marine ecosystem attracts a wide array of pelagic bird species such as Indian yellow-nosed albatross, Shy albatross, Black-browed albatross, White-chinned petrel, Wilson's storm petrel, Sooty shearwater and Brown skua to name a few. 

Protected bays such as Cape Vidal, Mabibi, Lala neck and Sodwana bay offer great snorkelling from shore

In the Winter months the coastline is visited by migrating Humpback whales which leave the frozen ocean at Lower latitudes (where they feed on krill) to shelter in the warm waters of the Mozambique (Agulhus) current. Their numbers continue to increase annually and during peak whale season (July to September) it is virtually guaranteed that you will see them from shore at places like Cape Vidal, Mission rocks and St Lucia. For closer views, there are Whale watching boat tours which depart from St Lucia on a daily basis during whale season.

Humpback whales are a common sight off the Isimangaliso Wetlands Park in the Winter months and early Spring.

In the summer months, the beaches to the North of St Lucia provide a safe nesting ground for Leatherback and Loggerhead turtles. Amazingly, female turtles return to nest on the same beaches that they hatched on, even though they may venture many thousands of kilometres away.  Females lay multiple clutches of eggs per season high up on the beaches to protect their nests from large storm swell (typical in the summer months due to large cyclones/Tropical storms out at sea). The beaches of the Isimangaliso Wetlands Park are of critical importance because human interference at other suitable nesting beaches has dramatically reduced available nesting habitat for these endangered marine turtles on the African mainland.

Loggerhead turtle hatchlings emerging from the sand, Bhanga nek beach.

The intertidal zone consisting of rocky shores and sandy beaches is frequented by a wide variety of shorebirds such as African (black) oystercatcher, Eurasian whimbrel, Sanderling, White-fronted plover, Grey plover, Ruddy turnstone as well as thousands upon thousands of Ghost crabs. 

African (Black) oystercatcher are found on the beaches of the Isimangaliso Wetlands Park. Eurasian oystercatcher is a rare vagrant.

The intertidal rock pools at places such as Mission rocks (accessible on the low tide) protect a stunning variety of marine life and it is also not uncommon to see Green turtles swimming in the channel just off the rock ledge.

Green turtle coming up for a breath off the Mission rocks rock ledge.

On a walk down one of the pristine sandy beaches it is not uncommon to see Leopard, Hippo, Spotted hyaena and Honey badger tracks , Red duiker and Bushbuck on the dunes or Bottle-nosed dolphins surfing the waves out at backline.

Bottle-nosed dolphins surfing the waves at Mission rocks, Isimangaliso Wetlands Park.

The large forested sand dunes which line the coastline are covered (on the landward side) by a unique habitat type within South Africa known as Dune forest. The Dune forest is home to many unique and very localized species of mammal, bird, reptile and invertebrate. Some special bird species include Southern-banded snake eagle,  Woodward’s batis, Rudd’s apalis and Livingstone’s turaco.​

The beautiful Dune forest which skirts the whole Isimangaliso Wetlands Park coastline (over 220km!)

Other Dune forest specials include Gaboon adder, Tonga red bush squirrel, Setaro's dwarf chameleon, Red duiker and Samango monkey.

The brilliantly camouflaged Gaboon adder, an inhabitant of Dune forest

The coastal grasslands and waterlily-covered wetlands which lie to the West of the Dune forest support an amazing diversity of waterfowl and grassland species with some special bird species including Rosy-throated longclaw, African pygmy goose, Denhams bustard, Swamp nightjar and Collared pratincole to name a few.

Swamp nightjar on the Eastern shores of Isimangaliso Wetlands Park.

The grasslands are bisected by small streams and drainage lines which are lined by another unique habitat type in South Africa called Swamp forest which supports it's own unique fauna and flora.

The Flora of Swamp forest differs from Dune forest and consists of tree species which can tolerate occassional flooding. The understory is dominated by fern species.

The Eastern shores of Lake St Lucia- once riddled with exotic plantations- has been rehabilitated and large game which was hunted out historically has been reintroduced. There are now healthy populations of Elephant, Buffalo, White and Black Rhino, Leopard, Spotted hyena and a wide range of other ungulates such as Common reedbuck, Waterbuck, Bushbuck, Kudu, Blue Wildebeest, Warthog and Red duiker. 

The Eastern shores of Isimangaliso Wetlands Park supports a healthy leopard population.

Another unique and outstanding feature of the Isimangaliso Wetlands Park are the estuarine lakes found a few kilometers inland of the ocean. The largest of these is Lake St Lucia which is connected to the ocean (sporadically) via a long channel known as 'the Narrows' .

Lake St Lucia visible from the False bay section of Isimangaliso Wetlands Park.

The estuary mouth is situated just to the South of St Lucia and is a dynamic and ecologically important area which supports a stunning variety of Shorebirds, Waterfowl and waders. When open, the mouth is utilized by a wide variety of estuarine and marine fish species such as River bream (Perch), Kob, Mullet, Spotted grunter and Kingfish.

Blue-cheeked bee-eater at the Lake St Lucia estuary mouth (Maphelane forested sand dune in the background)

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A large roost of terns (and other shorebirds) is usually present at the estuary mouth with numbers fluctuating according to season and food availability. In the Summer months there are typically 6 to 7 tern species present with usually a few less in the Winter months.

Tern roost at the Lake St Lucia estuary mouth

The Lake St Lucia estuary mouth is also famous as one of few places where it is possible to see Crocodiles, Hippopotamus and Bull sharks swimming in the same waters!   ​

Bull shark hunting at the Lake St Lucia estuary mouth.

During the Winter months the estuary edges are home to visiting Mangrove kingfisher which migrate up the coast from the Eastern Cape. There are only a few hundred individuals within South Africa and the Lake St Lucia estuary provides an important non-breeding ground for these beautiful birds.

Mangrove kingfisher, St Lucia

Lake St Lucia itself is an important nursery ground for many estuarine/marine fish species as well as prawns.  It is also home to the unique amphibious mudskipper fish which can survive prolonged periods of time outside the water.

Lake St Lucia and the 'Narrows' is home to the unique amphibious fish- Mudskipper

The abundance of fish in the lake attracts a large variety of piscivorous bird species such as Pink-backed & Great White pelican, Caspian tern, Goliath heron, African fish-eagle and Western osprey to name a few. In dry periods when the lake edges are shallow, large flocks of Greater and Lesser flamingo gather to feed. 

Large mixed flocks of Greater & Lesser flamingo gather at Lake St Lucia when conditions are suitable.

Lake St Lucia also supports some of the largest populations of Hippopotamus and crocodile in the country. St Lucia town is famous for having it's resident pods of hippo saunter into town in the evenings to graze on short lawn grass at the verges of roads and in people's gardens.

Classic St Lucia- a hippo grazing grass in town!

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To the west of Lake St Lucia lies the Western shores and False bay sections of the Isimangaliso Wetlands Park. The Western shores protects a similar variety of habitats to the Eastern shores with a few slight differences such as Lala palm studded grasslands, Tall woodland and the odd sandforest patch. As a result the Western shores is better for birds such as Lemon-breasted canary and Pink-throated twinspot. 

Lemon-breasted canary are more common on the Western shores of Isimangaliso Wetlands Park due to a higher density of Lala palms (Their nesting site)

Large game has also been reintroduced to the Western shores and in addition to all the species occurring on the Eastern shores, it also supports populations of Nyala, Giraffe and Tsessebe. Recently, the Western shores has also become famous for its population of 'Strawberry leopard'- a rare genetic abnormality whereby leopards lack black pigment and as a result their rosettes are reddish in colour instead.

Strawberry leopard on the Western shores, Isimangaliso Wetlands Park.

The False bay section of the Isimangaliso Park protects beautiful tracts of Sandforest and lakeshore on the North-Western edge of Lake St Lucia. With no dangerous game, this area can be explored on foot or mountain bike via one of the stunning trails. 

The beautiful Mphophomeni trail in the False Bay section of Isimangaliso passes through stunning sandforest

The sandforest areas in particular, are a birding hotspot protecting many rare and localised species such as African broadbill, Gorgeous bush-shrike, Eastern nicator, Rudd's apalis, Purple-banded & Neergaards sunbird to name a few. ​

African broadbill is a sandforest special found in the False bay section of the Isimangaliso Wetlands park.

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The Lake and lake shore in the False bay section, besides being tranquil and picturesque, offer great birding for waterfowl.

Pink-backed pelican, Lake St Lucia, False Bay section.

The Mkhuze section of the Isimangaliso Wetlands Park protects a wide range of habitats all crammed into a relatively small area of 400sq/km. Habitats include the foothills of the Lebombo mountains, Bushveld, Tall woodland, Ox-bow lakes, Riparian forest and Sandforest. The amazing diversity of habitats crammed into a small area makes Mkhuze a birding mecca, with over 400 species of bird recorded in the reserve. Mkhuze is famous as one of the best locations to see the rare and elusive Pel's fishing owl which can be found in the lush Riparian forest along the banks of the Mkhuze river and oxbow lakes. The guided Fig-forest walk gives the best chance of seeing this impressive owl. Sand forest areas protect many unique bird species such as Neergaard's sunbird, African broadbill, Eastern nicator, Bearded scrub-robin and Pink-throated twinspot. 

Male and female Pink-throated twinspot close to Kumsinga hide in Mkhuze

Large game has also been reintroduced to the reserve over the years and it is now home to Lion, Leopard, African Wilddog, Cheetah, Elephant, Buffalo, Black and White rhino and a wide variety of ungulates.  ​

Cheetah feasting on it's Red duiker prey in the Mkhuze section of the Isimangaliso Wetlands Park

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The small and secretive Suni antelope is one of the special mammal species found in the park which is restricted to Sand forest habitat and therefore very range-limited and localised in South Africa.

Suni antelope - a sand forest resident.

A nice variety of well-placed hides overlooking waterholes and the oxbow lakes provide excellent photographic opportunities for birds and animals. The hides overlooking waterholes are particularly productive in the drier Winter and Spring months when parched animals and birds come to quench their thirst.

A typical dry season scene at one of Mkhuze Game reserve's fantastic hides

North of Sodwana bay the Coastal forest section of the Isimangaliso Wetlands park skirts the coastline all the way up until the Mozambique border. This stretch of coast is characterised by many beautiful remote beaches and protected bays such as Mabibi, Rocktail bay, Lala nek, Black rock, Dog point and Bhanga nek which all offer fantastic snorkeling on the low tide.

Dog point

The Maputaland turtle sanctuary is found within this section of the park and forms the core protected area for nesting Leatherback and Loggerhead turtles- the highest density of which can be found nesting between Bhanga nek and the Mozambique border. The turtle research and monitoring programme here is the longest-running in the world and the source of much of the information we know about marine turtles- something to be proud of!

Loggerhead turtle female returning to the water after laying eggs- Bhanga nek

West of Mabibi is the beautiful and tranquil Lake Sibaya- a large freshwater lake seperated from the ocean by the impressive forested sand dunes. The lake is home to hippo and crocodiles and some unique fish species. The short grassy, damp shoreline of the lake is a good area to search for Rosy-throated longclaw. 

Rosy-throated longclaw

Another impressive feature of this stretch of coast is 'Island rock'- a large island of reef which is exposed on the low tide and juts out above the ocean 50m off the shore. The Western 'inside' section of the reef is very sheltered from swell which allows corals to thrive- creating a beautiful underwater aquarium.

Beautiful coral reef- Island rock

The 4 Kosi Lakes are another outstanding feature of the coastal forest section of the Isimangaliso Wetlands Park. The Lakes are all connected by channels and also connected to the ocean at the Kosi mouth. A traditional and sustainable form of fishing developed 700 years ago is still used by the Tonga people living alongside the lake- an interesting cultural feature of the lake. 

The beautiful Kosi Lakes with traditional fish kraals visible.

The Kosi mouth is an extraordinary area which protects a stunning diversity of marine and estuarine life. It has been nicknamed the 'aquarium' as a result and provides some breathtaking snorkelling.   

Stonefish at the Kosi mouth

It is also possible to snorkel in the first and second lake on a guided boat trip where it is possible to see Mangrove snapper, Glassy, Moonies and other estuarine fish.

Moonies in 1st Lake

Impressive Raffia palm forests are found in a few locations bordering the Kosi lakes and these are home to Palm-nut vulture. The Palm-nut vultures use the Raffia palms for nesting and roosting purposes and also eat the husk of the fruit. They are also regularly seen on the beaches to the East of the Kosi Lakes. 

Palm-nut vulture on the beach

The Isimangaliso Wetlands park is also a legendary fishing destination for shore anglers, ski fishermen and deep sea fishermen alike.  Deep sea fishermen are permitted to catch pelagic species such as Tuna, King & Queen mackerel, Dorado, Wahoo, Sailfish, Marlin and Kingfish. Shore anglers target species such as Kob, Natal stumpnose, Spotted grunter, Garrick (Winter), Shad (Winter), Kingfish, Pompano and Perch.

River bream (Perch) caught at the Lake St Lucia estuary mouth

For the surfers out there, there are various uncrowded breaks on offer at St Lucia, Cape Vidal, Mabibi, Black rock and Sodwana.

Surfing Cape Vidal